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Showing posts from September, 2019

Around the South End of Vancouver Island and Into the Salish Sea

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Hot springs cove is a perfect anchorage, perfect depth, lots of room and lots of protection. As for the hotsprings they are basically undeveloped cracks in the rocks with beautiful hot water flowing into them. There is a mile long boardwalk leading up to them which is a thing of beauty. I arrived at a quiet time but still the hot springs were crowded. I have heard that at some times there are up to 200 people waiting to cram themselves into these tiny pools. Boardwalk into Hot Springs There is a back route to Tofino avoiding the ocean swells. It is a perfectly calm unstressfull route. The stress begins in Tofino Harbour with all the boats buzzing around, the shallow water, strong tidal currents and myriad obstacles in the water. I got fuel water and tied up to the local dock. Then I was a tourist just like the hundreds milling around. I was tied up at the end of the dock in a not very protected spot. That night I was awakened by the swells slamming th...

Getting Around Estevan Point

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I left the perfectly sheltered Bodega Cove to go eight miles closer to the open ocean and an anchorage that had great reviews in the guide book. As soon as I headed out the the rain came down in sheets. Two thirds of the way there I got slammed by 20 to 25 knot winds. The boat speed was down to .7 knots and it was looking like I had made a bit of a blunder. Eventually I arrived in the rock choked entrance and slipped into the perfect quiet of Santa Gertrudis Cove. What a great spot. Well anchored with a stern tie to a tree I looked around and inspected the wooden motor yacht anchored close by. Motor Yacht , Pretty Girl Later I was to find out that this wooden boat was made after WW2. Her hull planks are 2 1/2 by 8 . They are over 70 foot long planks. Her owner runs a surfing business from it and there were five surfers aboard. Later I was invited to shore for a sauna and later to the boat for a campfire and sushi and beer.   This was the resident ...

West Coast Vancouver Island

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I am storm staid on the wrong side of Estavan Point. It has been pouring continuously for the last fourteen hours. Last I checked it was blowing 35 knots off Estevan Point. So no point hoisting the anchor today. Here are some shots taken on Queen Charlotte Strait, a week ago. No Fog and can you believe how calm it is. And a couple of pictures of Port Hardy, a place I have grown quite fond of. Finally it was off around the West Coast of Vancouver Island. I poked in and out of the fog for a while. Then did a little lackluster sailing down Goletas Channel to Bull Harbour. This is the jumping off spot for people heading to Haida Gwaii or going around Vancouver Island. There has been a lot written about Nawhitti Bar and how the shallows, current and incoming swell all combine to create a shitstorm if you do not cross at the right time. Therefore I perused the literature and double and triple checked my calculations. They must have be...

Down the coast to Port Hardy

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After a few hours sleep I decided to depart and get away from this sport fishing disneyland. I motored in an absolutely calm sea. Two anchorages later and I was in Bella Bella where I refueled and got groceries. Ling Cod Western Grebe Unfortuately I ran into three days of fog as I went down Fitz Hugh Sound and went around Cape Caution. I spent many hours staring into the fog and poring over moving targets on my radar. Eventually I was around Cape Caution  and found a fantastic anchorage on the other side. From there it was an easy crossing to Port Hardy.

down Moresby Island and across to the mainland

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Once again across the bar and out into Hecate Strait for about 20 miles and then into the protection of Thurston Harbour.   Here I met Norton and his Farrier 30 trimaran. This is a boat that I have contemplated for a while. Norton kindly gave me a tour of his boat and we had a long discussion about the pros and cons of owning a trimaran. Later I revisited Echo Harbour. It is a great place to poke around, always with and eye out for bears. My jumping off point was Murchison Island. It is a great place to hang out. While there I met Evan and Sarah on their CS 27.  They were headed to Queen Charlotte City and were going to end their trip there.  Ultimately it was time to head across Hecate Strait. The forecast was for 15-20 from the North. Turned into a bit of a rough trip. I think the wind hit 25 but the main issue was the confused seas. For the first time ever I felt a little queasy. I put two reefs in t...